Zombies in the House!

Table of Contents
I. Introduction
II. Character
III. Name
IV. Statistics
V. Statistic Increase
VI. Skills
VII. Abilities
VIII. Information
IX. Rules
X. Using Skills
XI. Earning Advancement
XII. Calculating Advancement
XIII. Combat
XIV. Firearms
XV. Taking Damage
XVI. Healing
XVII. Allies
XVIII. Gamemastery
XIX. House
XX. Street
XXI. There Goes the Neighborhood!
XXII. ...And the City, Too
XXIII. Exceptions
XXIV. Rewards
XXV. Threats
XXVI. Level 1 Monsters
XXVII. Level 2 Monsters
XXVIII. Level 3 Monsters
XXIX. Allies
XXX. Dealing Damage

I. Introduction
This is a simple RPG using a few dice and even a pencil or two. You play the role of an average, everyday Joe whose house just happens to have been invaded by a horde of zombies. You must escape your house and neighborhood and the zombies before you get infected by whatever it is that makes them zombies in the first place.
Along the way, you can pick up friends and allies from nearby houses. You can also find all kinds of helpful tools and foodstuffs around the place that you can use in your escape. You might even be able to find some sort of transport so you don't have to try and wade out through the horde of zombies.
The rules of this game are very small. They're designed to be easy to learn and easy to play with only a small amount of bookkeeping. In favour of simplicity, there are not rules written out for every conceivable possibility. Instead, the Gamemaster will need to use common sense. The world in the game is equivalent to the world in which we live (albeit with zombies and monsters) and has the same rules of physics.

II. Character
But first you need to get your character together. Your character will be written out on a sheet of paper or a note card or a legal pad or a receipt or whatever you happen to have on hand at the moment.
You'll also need something to write with. A pen would work, I guess, but I suggest a pencil. That way you can erase things. Because paper runs out quickly when you keep writing things down and then scribbling them out.

III. Name
So, the first thing that you have to decide for your character is fairly simple, that is, a name. This can range anywhere from something rather average such as Joe or Sally, to something much less normal, such as Talgortha the Destroyer.
I would suggest that you choose something more normal, otherwise the other players may decide to get violent.

IV. Statistics
Alright, you have a name, but not much else written on your paper. Next you need to fill in your statistics. These are Physical, Mental, and Social.
Physical measures how strong you are, as well as how fast and how tough.
Mental shows how clever you are and how fast you can come up with a plan.
Social shows how well you get along with other people and how easily you can influence them.
To determine each of your stats, roll 1D6 three times. Then take the three numbers rolled and place them as you like. Now you're one step closer to being done.

V. Statistic Increase
Of course, you'll probably want to increase your statistics, eventually. This is fairly rare, but not especially complex. Each time that you kill a level 3 monster, you get to increase one of your statistics by 1 point.

VI. Skills
The next step is to choose your skills. Every character, in addition to his stats, gets a certain number of areas that they have expertise in. For instance, a character whose day job is being the local handyman might have skill in Plumbing and Electrical Repair and suchlike. Mostly, Plumbing won't help you during play, unless you come across an undead leaky faucet, but Electrical Repair could mean the difference between a chainsaw and a deadly weapon, or a car and a way to get out.
Skills work slightly differently than stats. Whereas you have a number written down as your stat, you have a particular die roll written down as your skill. For instance, you might have Athletic D4. This means that whenever you need to outrun a swarming horde of brain-cravers, you roll a 4-sided die, add a couple of numbers that will be explained later, and try to get a certain amount or else you fail.
To start with, you get 1D6+9 points. These points are used to buy levels in different skills. Then you choose the skill or skills that you want and put in points. For each point put in, you get a die with that many sides.
For instance, if you put 4 points into Guns, then you get a D4. If you put only 1 point in, then you automatically roll a 1 whenever you use that skill. It will be possible to increase these skills later on.
Some examples of skills and which stat they fit into are listed here:

Physical
-Athletics
This shows your quickness in running and leaping hurdles and the like.

-Swim
This shows how well you can handle yourself in the water. You don't have to worry about just wading through a pool or even a pond, but when you're being chased by monsters or if there is a strong current, then you'll need to use this skill.

-Jump
This shows how high and far you can jump over or across obstacles.

-Ride
This shows how adept and practiced you are at riding things such as bicycles, motorcycles, and even horses.

-Drive
This shows your skill in driving vehicles, both motorized and not. Trucks, cars, vans, wagons complete with horses hitched; they all fall into this category.

-Guns
This shows how accurate you are with firearms.

-Sports (Each one should be taken separately)
This shows how good you are at your chosen sport. How far you can throw a football, how hard you can swing a baseball bat or a hockey stick.

-Sneak
Some people are naturally quiet and soft-footed. This shows how well you can sneak around so that the zombies can't hear you.

-Hide
This shows your ability to conceal yourself or others from sight. The zombies can't eat you if they can't find you in the first place.

-Climb
This shows how well you can climb up or down. You don't need this skill for going down the stairs, but you do need it for scaling the side of a house, even with a rope.

-Dodge
This shows how quick your reflexes are when something ifs moving towards you. This does not include attacks, only things like collapsing buildings or cars that try to run you over.


Mental
-Computers
This shows how skilled you are at operating computers and most other electronic devices. Sometimes it pays to be able to access the internet.

-Electrical Repair
This shows how adept you are at putting electronic devices back to working order. This could include things like computers, radios, televisions, or garage door openers.

-Plumbing
This shows how adept you are at repairing piping and dealing with leaks. As is stated previously, this skill may not be of much use.

-Search
This shows how thoroughly you can search an area. The more thorough you are, the more useful things that you can find.

-Devise
This shows how resourceful you are. Devise allows you to think up ideas and find weapons that you wouldn't normally think to use, such as a lamp.

-Spot
This shows how quick-eyed you are and allows you to see things that others miss.

-Mechanical Repair
This shows how adept you are at repairing mechanical devices, such as cars or backhoes.


Social
-Bluff
This shows how calmly and believably you can lie.

-Persuasion
This shows how persuasive you are. You might even make a bad idea sound good.

-Threaten
This shows how imposing and threatening and dangerous-looking you can make yourself look.

-Leadership
This shows how much confidence people that don't even know you will have in you as their leader. It also allows you to inspire confidence with stirring speeches and the like.


Skills could also be anything else you can think of. Make sure to get your Game Master's approval for any skill that you want to write down. He might have some ideas based on the game that he'll be running. If you're going to be playing in a neighborhood without any swimming pools, then there wouldn't be much call for skill at Swimming or Diving.
What you do when you use a skill is explained later on.

VII. Abilities
The second to last step in creating your character is getting your Abilities. These are secondary stats that are used mainly in combat, but also other places. They are Hit Points, Defense, and Weight Limit.
Hit Points (HP) are the measure of how much damage you can take before you die. And trust me, you don't want to die. If you die then you come back as a zombie to terrorize your own house and friends.
Your Weight Limit (WL) measures how much weight you can carry. A baseball bat might not weigh much, but a chainsaw is heftier. And bullets add up fairly quickly.
Your defense tells you how hard it is for the zombies to hit you. The higher defense class, the lower chance that you'll be hit.
To calculate your HP, roll 1D6, and add your Physical stat value. For instance, if you have 5 Physical, and roll a 3 on 1D6, then you would have 8 HP. Write your HP down.
To calculate your WL, multiply your Physical stat by 20. This gives you the total weight in pounds that you can carry easily. Anymore and you would be too weighed down and tired out to outrun the zombies. That wouldn't be very good. Write your WL down too.
To find your Defense, take your Physical stat and apply it to the table below. Then write down your defense class.

:Defense Table:
Physical
Defense
1-3 Easy
4-8 Average
9-13 Hard
14-15 Very Hard
16-17 Overpowering
18 Impossible


VIII. Information
Only one thing left to do. Somewhere on your paper, write down all the stuff about your character. Age, height, weight, sex, eye color, hair color, skin tone. You don't have to fill all these out. I suggest you choose at least three of them to write down.
Be as specific or as general as you like. Some people might say that their character weighs 156 pounds. Others might say that he's "average" in weight. It's up to you.
If you want to, you can fill out all of these and make up some more for yourself. The more you think about what your character is like, the more you'll know your character and what he'll do.
Congratulations! You now have a fully completed character, ready for play!

IX. Rules
Although you have a complete character, you don't have all the knowledge needed to play the game.
For instance, you know if you have the skill to do something, but you don't know how to use that skill. Unless you read ahead instead of reading it straight through like I meant it.
The next thing that you need to learn is all the rules. This should be fairly simple, since mostly it's just based on your skills. So it should be fairly easy to learn and remember.

X. Using Skills
First you'll need to learn about how to use those skills that you have written down on your character sheet. All skill rolls are made using your skill die and the skill's governing stat. For instance, if you were trying to run away from a pack of zombies, you would look at your sheet to see that you had Athletics D4 and Physical 3. Then you would roll 1D4+3.
The product of your skill roll is matched against a difficulty table. The difficulty of the action can be anything from Easy to Impossible, depending on the situation.

:Difficulty Table:
Difficulty
Required Sec Success
Easy 2 N/A
Average 5 3
Hard 10 5
Very Hard 15 10
Overpowering 25 20
Impossible 30 25


On the difficulty table, the Required column shows what roll is needed to succeed in your task. The Sec Success column shows what roll is needed to get a secondary success.
A Secondary Success is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. You don't actually succeed the way that you planned, but you don't horribly fail, either.
For instance, your character was attempting to jump from one rooftop to the next to escape a horde of zombies. You have Jump d6 and Physical 4. The GM has decided that it is a Hard task, so you need to get 10 to get across. You roll 1D6+4 (it's possible for you to succeed, but not likely). You get a 3+4, making a 7. This does not succeed, but it does qualify for a Secondary Success. So you didn't make it across to the next roof, but on your way down, you manage to grab onto a window ledge and pull yourself in.
If you had rolled a 6 (6+4=10), then you would have succeeded and made it across to the next roof. If you did not have any skill in jumping, then you would have gotten an automatic 0 (0+4=4), and you would have failed completely, falling to the ground below.
The difficulty of each action is decided by the GM.

XI. Earning Advancement
Now you're probably wondering how you get more skilled. You don't always stay at the same skill level, so you will be able to increase your skill dice above what they begin at.
This is a several part process. First, whenever you succeed (not a secondary success) with a difficulty of greater than Average at using a skill, you put a check mark next to that skill. You can have up to five checks next to a single skill. Additionally, you cannot have more checks on your paper at any one time than five plus your Mental. You cannot choose to not put a check on your paper, you always gain checks in the order of skill success.
For instance, you have Mental 1, and you have five checks on your Athletics skill. You successfully Jump out of a window and then Drive away in your car. For this, you can only get one check (since you already have five and five plus your Mental limits you to a total of six). You cannot put the check on Drive, because you first Jumped out of the window. So the check goes on Jump.
There are three ways that these checks can be used up.
1: If you get five checks on any one skill at a time, then you erase all of them and roll to advance the skill once. You are not required to, but it is a good way to get rid of some of the checks that you have so that you can gain more later.
2:If you or your group kills a monster of level 2 or 3, then you may choose one or two checks (one for level 2, two for level 3) and erase them. Then roll for advancing the skill a number of times equal to the number of checks erased.
3:When you successfully survive a zombie invasion, the GM will give you a number of checks that can be erased and you then make that number of rolls to advance the skills.
Any checks left over after you survive the invasion are erased and ignored.

XII. Calculating Advancement
Whenever you get a skill advancement roll, you roll 1D12 and attempt to get a higher number than your skill's die. If you roll higher, then you increase your die type by one (i.e. 1D3 to 1D4 to 1D5 to 1D6 to 1D8, etc.). If you fail to roll higher, then you get no advancement.
For instance, if you are rolling for advancement on your Athletics, which is already at 1D4, you roll the 1D12. If you get 5 or more, then you increase your Athletics to 1D5. If you get 4 or less, then you get no increase and your Athletics stays at 1D4.

XIII. Combat
The time will come when you will be backed to a wall and be forced to attack those shambling things that are chasing you and trying to eat your brains. Or you may just want to play some Zombie Head Baseball. It's up to you.
Either way you're going to need to know how to fight. There are specific rules for this so that everything turns out fair and balanced, but with a certain uncertainty factor.
When you actually want to attack something, the procedure is quite simple. First you figure out what weapon you're using. This could be something more traditional such as a shotgun or a chainsaw. But really anything could be used, like a football, or a dolphin.
Next, with the input of your GM, you decide what skill should be used for your weapon. For a shotgun it would be Gun skill, for a baseball bat it would be sports. A chainsaw would either be its own skill or it would fall under Gardening or Yardwork (although I don't know why you'd choose those skills).
Finally, you roll your skill to try and hit your opponent. You roll just like a normal skill as discussed above. The GM will determine the difficulty of your attack based on the monster's Defense class.
If you roll successfully, then the monster being attacked recieves one 'hit'. After a certain number of hits (known to the GM. He might tell you, he might not) the monster dies.
Killing monsters might not be your first choice, but the less following you in a horde down the street the better.

XIV. Firearms
The most common and most useful tool to use against zombies is a trusty gun. Handguns, rifles, shotguns, they all work well. But the thing about guns is that they need ammo. Even assuming that you can find a fire arm to use against the zombies, you still need to reload it every now and then. And some guns aren't as powerful, requiring more bullets to deal a 'hit'.
Firearms fall into one of four categories.
Handguns are pretty much anything that only requires one hand to hold and is not automatic. They aren't as powerful, but are easier to carry around. Every time a handgun is used to shoot at a zombie, 4 bullets are used up.
Rifles are long-barreled firearms that require two hands to use. Each time a rifle is used to attack a zombie, 2 bullets are used. Rifles can sometimes be used with a scope to snipe from farther away. This does not give a bonus to hit, but any rifle with a scope uses only one bullet per attack.
Shotguns are two-handed firearms with long barrels that fire loads of small metal pellets. These spread out, making it easy to hit a wide area with just one shot, but also limiting the range. Each attack with a shotgun takes only 1 bullet. However, for zombies more than a few feet away it requires 2.
Automatic weapons are any size of gun that can fire continuously with a single pull of the trigger. These guns shoot fast. Each turn, a player with an automatic weapon can attack twice. If there are two targets, they cannot be more than a few feet apart. Each attack with an automatic weapon takes 6 bullets.

XV. Taking Damage
When you're facing off against the ravenous horde of brain-eaters, there will most likely come a time when they land a hit. When this happens the GM will tell you a number to subtract from your HP. When you reach 0 HP, you fall unconscious. When you reach -2 HP, you die. It's a good idea to keep healing as well as you can as you go along.

XVI. Healing
There are really only two good ways to heal, food and rest. For every two hours of good rest that you get, you heal 1 HP. Unfortunately, when you're running from zombies, it is very hard to get good rest.
So, for every four hours of not so good rest that you get (such as when you're holed up in a room while someone stands guard and zombies claw at the door), you gain 1 HP.
But the zombies do not sleep, so you'll have a hard time catching the rest needed to heal.
Food is counted in Food Points. For every Food Point that your character eats, he regains one HP. But your character can only regain a maximum of five HP each day from Food Points, so you don't need to feast all the time.
When you find food, the GM will tell you how many Food Points it is worth. You can only eat food in whole Food Points, never halves. But if some food is worth multiple Food Points, you can eat each one separately, if you want to.

XVII. Allies
In your mad dash away from the zombie horde you may find other survivors. These might be helpful hands that can repel zombie hordes, or they might just be loud-mouthed baggage that will leech away your resources.
It'll be up to you if you let others tag along, although some might decide to follow you even if you don't want them to.
Allies can be helpful when it comes to fighting or carrying large amounts of stuff. But they can hinder you when it comes to outrunning monsters or fitting inside spaces too small for a large group.
Allies always need to make their own skill rolls when they have to perform actions that require them. The GM controls allies and rolls for them.
At times, you may even encounter allies who are better off than you are, and who you will need to convince that they need you to survive.

XVIII. Gamemastery
Of all the people playing the game, the Gamemaster (GM) has the most responsibility. The GM is in charge of all the things that happen to the characters and that happen because of the characters.
The GM builds a house or a series of houses for the characters to escape from. He places zombies and controls them during play. Even though he is in control of all of the opposing forces, the GM is not playing against the players.
A zombie invasion is considered to be whatever you play at one time. If you decide to get out of the house, then once that's done you have survived the invasion and can advance your skills as listed above. But if you decide that the characters aren't safe until they've gotten off the street, then you must do so before you are considered to have survived the invasion.

XIX. House
The most basic form of playing is when the character, or characters are trying to escape a House. This is limited to one building, usually a habitation, that is currently being overrun by zombies. The characters must get out of the house before they are eaten.
The characters begin in a single room or possibly multiple rooms of a House and must fight or sneak their way past zombies and into the open where they can be safe. Maybe.
The mechanics for creating a House are fairly simple. You, as the GM, need a map of a house, or a good picture of the floorplan in your head.
You also need to know how many zombies are in the House. A House should usually have five times as many zombies as there are characters. This way, the horde could easily devour them, but the House isn't constricted to standing room only.
You will also need to know if there are any monsters of more interest than zombies. There are two levels of monsters (Level 2 and Level 3) that are more powerful than zombies. For every twenty zombies in a single House, there is one Level 2 monster. There can never be a Level 3 monster in a single House.
Next, you need to know where all of the possible weapons, allies, and food stuffs are. Almost anything could be a weapon for the desperate characters, but some normal things are baseball bats, hockey sticks, and guns. It might be a good idea to remember that bedrooms will have things like lamps and maybe chairs, and garages or sheds will have tools that can be used to advantage.
Now you need to know if there is anything that could harm the characters beside the zombies. Things get broken by passing monsters without them realizing it, and pools of water with live wires can be deadly. Other things that would fit in this category include broken staircases, collapsed ceilings, and spilled chemicals.
Finally, you need to know how the characters can get out. How many doors are there? Are they locked? Are there windows on the ground floor? How far would they drop if the characters jumped out of a second floor window?
Once you know everything that can hurt the characters, and everything that they can use, and roughly where it is, you're done.
Now, this sounds like a long process, but it isn't that bad.
On a side note, most of the time the characters will be able to know the entire layout of the House. Usually, the House will belong to one or more of them, or their friends. Of course, it could be that they are only in the house to steal the stuff, so they wouldn't know anything about the floorplan.

XX. Street
Okay, they've gotten out of the House and away from the zombies. Now what? There are two things that you could do. The first is to make new character and play through another House. The other is to play a Street.
Whereas a House is a single building composed of several rooms, a Street is composed of several Houses. The method for creating a Street is simply designating how many Houses are on the Street, and then creating each of the Houses. There is also the added dimension of the Street itself and of all the House's yards.
Because of how many Houses you will have, usually between six and ten, it is a good idea to abbreviate the amount of work that you do on any particular House. In fact, you may even want to cut it down to just the number and Level of the monsters inside and maybe a few of the weapons. Of course, if you do, you'll have more work later if and when the characters actually go into the House.
The Street itself makes an interesting playing field, since it's long and open, it's an easy place to get chased down. But freedom calls from either end (unless it's a dead-end street), and it's an awfully strong lure to try and make a break for it. Of course, that doesn't mean you'll make it. Zombies are very slow, but they have numbers on their side.
The front yards of the Houses are only important in what they might offer the characters, namely, a few weapons in the form of yard implements, such as rakes or hedge-trimmers or chainsaws. But the back yards offer another way out over fences and through back doors. Of course, it also offers more room in which the monsters can roam, too.
There are more monsters in a Street than in a single House. There are ten zombies, per character, per house. Also, for every twenty zombies, there is one Level 2 monster, and for every five Level 2 monsters, there is one Level 3 monster.
For instance, a group of four characters trying to escape a Street of six Houses, would have to deal with or bypass 240 zombies, 12 Level 2 monsters, and 2 Level 3 monsters.
As you can see, the numbers add up very quickly, but most of the monsters will be inside of Houses, and most of the Houses will most likely never be entered, although some monsters will come out to play.

XXI. There Goes the Neighborhood!
After escaping the Street, if you want to keep your characters going, the best way is to have them take on a Neighborhood. A Neighborhood, like a street, is simply a collection of the next smaller things. In this case, between five and ten Streets.
The number of zombies also goes up by quite a bit. There are twenty zombies per character, per house (assume an average of six Houses per street). There are also one Level 2 per twenty zombies and 1 Level 3 for every five Level 2 monsters.
For instance, four characters in a Neighborhood of five Streets would be facing 2400 zombies, 120 Level 2 monsters, and 24 Level 3 monsters.
When you enlarge the area to the size of a Neighborhood, you also add the areas that are not part of individual streets. Such things as the local gas station or mom and pop diner. These sites are very useful in providing food and fuel and the occasional weapon or ally.

XXII. ...And the City, too.
Of course, there will always be the urge to keep going, and going. When that urge comes on, you can always try another Street or Neighborhood, or you can graduate to a City.
The City is a collection of nine or ten Neighborhoods, along with several areas of other buildings, such as stores. These other buildings are something that make a City stand out because the players are able to run over to the hardware store and pick up a sledge hammer. As long as they can get to that part of town, they can get as much food and weaponry as they can carry, along with things to help them carry more.
The number of zombies in a city increases by a lot. There are a total of forty zombies per character per house (assume five houses in a street) per street (assume four streets in a neighborhood) per neighborhood. The number of level 2 and level 3 monsters is the same ratio to the number of zombies as before.
For instance, four characters in a city of six neighborhoods would face 19,200 zombies (there's a horde for you!), 9600 level 2 monsters, and 1920 level 3 monsters. That's a lot. A whole lot. But you need to remember that all of them are spread out through houses and streets and neighborhood and stores and shops and the city hall building and the public library. They won't be packed into a small space, and the players probably won't fight every single one of them, unless they decide to.
All of the shops and buildings can be a great boon in the way of food and weapons and allies. A grocery store will be filled with edibles, and the police station will have some firearms and ammunition. The players will probably be able to figure out for themselves what kinds of places they want to visit, but you, as GM, need to know roughly what is in your city.

XXIII. Exceptions.
Of course, there are some differences from the numbers listed above. In these circumstances, you will want to adjust the amount of zombies accordingly.
For instance, if you are playing a House, and the house happens to be a sprawling mansion, you will want to have more zombies. The numbers given are for an average of seven or eight rooms in a house. If you used the same numbers for a house with 25 rooms, then you would have an average of less than one zombie per room. In a case such as this, I would suggest increasing the number of zombies so that there will be two or three in each room, on average.
There are also times when you will want to adjust the number of zombies downward. Such as when the House is a one room shack, since twenty zombie would cramp that quite a bit.
This way, the number of zombies will not be too many in one place, or too few to pose much of a threat.

XXIV. Rewards
Even in the middle of a zombie apocalypse people will still want money. Maybe when this is all over they can set themselves up pretty well with all of the stuff they've taken. This kind of thinking can be used mercilessly by the GM. The players will hear that the bank vault was left open when the zombies attacked, and then they'll go to any lengths to get to the bank.

XXV. Threats
There will always be things that are not monsters, but still are not healthy for the players. These are things like holes to fall in, flooded rooms, and naked wires. These things are not out to get the players, and can sometimes be very obvious. Other times, though, they are harder to see. You might notice the waist deep water in the basement, but you won't necessarily see the wires in one corner, feeding a steady stream of energy into the water.
These things will mostly do damage to the players, if not dealt with appropriately. Live wires can be bypassed, water can be swum through, and holes can be skirted, or jumped over. But this will not always be the case. Sometimes you just can't avoid it, or have bad luck rolling. Then the character gets injured. The amount of damage dealt by any threat shouldn't be too much. The Average character has 7 hit points (the range being from 2 to 12). If you deal out five damage from falling into electrified water that couldn't easily be avoided, then the players aren't going to be happy and the character will soon be dead.
A good amount of damage would be one of two possibilities. One idea is to make it small. Two or three damage tops, usually more along the lines of one or two. Or you could use a roll. The players don't have much to grumble about with a die roll. It's not up to you where it lands, it just happens. Of course, make sure that you're not rolling too large of a die. A good size would be d4 or d5. This allows a greater range of damage, without making it easy for the character to die.

XXVI. Level 1 Monsters
There are three levels of monsters. Level 1 is the easiest to kill, and also the most common to find. Level 1 monsters are exclusively zombies. However, there are several different kinds of zombies, each with a little bit of difference in how they work. In the listing for speed is given the difficulty of a skill check made to run from the monster.

Zombie
Hits: 1
Attack: d6+1
Speed: Easy
Defense: Average
Zombies are the most well known versions of undead. They shamble slowly along and try to eat brains. Zombies are fairly easy to dispatch, as long as you can get past the fact that they look like your loved ones. Zombies can be found almost anywhere that you can think of, and they are capable of opening doors and untying ropes and such. They just don't. Ever.

Zombie Baby
Hits: 1
Attack: d6+1
Speed: Easy
Defense: Hard
Zombie Babies are extremely creepy little buggers. They look like tiny, innocent little toddlers, but with guts hanging out of their mouths. They also eat brains, though they are also easy to take out. They can't quite reach as high as Zombies, meaning all you need to get away from them is a high counter top. Although their small stature does make it more difficult to hit them with your baseball bat.

Zombie Fido
Hits: 1
Attack: d6+1
Speed: Average
Defense: Hard
Zombie Fidoes are undead dogs of all shapes, sizes, breeds, and states of decomposition. They can run quite a bit faster than regular Zombies or Zombie Babies, but still can't outpace a healthy human.

XXVII. Level 2 Monsters
Level 2 monsters are stronger and maybe faster than Level 1 monsters, but they still aren't intelligent and self-aware.

Wolfman
Hits: 2
Attack: d8+4
Speed: Very Hard
Defense: Very Hard
Wolfmen are the perfect predators. They mix speed, strength, a resistance to damage, and razor sharp fangs and claws. Wolfmen prefer to hunt their prey in open spaces such as streets or large, open buildings. If forced to, they will follow prey into more cramped quarters. They have keen senses, making it very difficult to hide from them.

Goon
Hits: 2
Attack: d8+1
Speed: Average
Defense: Hard
More commonly known as the Creature from the Black Lagoon, Goons are amphibious, humanoid carnivores. They like to eat people, and they don't mind if the people are alive or not. Goons catch their prey and carry them off to nearby bodies of water. Goons never travel too far from water, as they need to periodically immerse themselves.

Frank
Hits: 2
Attack: d8+2
Speed: Easy
Defense: Hard
Frankenstein's Monster, Frank, is stitched together from dead human body parts. Franks are much like uber-Zombies: they're tough, thick, and animated by lightning. Franks act like Zombies, wandering aimlessly in search of living humans. However, while Zombies are interested in human brains, Franks are simply interested in killing for the sake of killing.

Mummy
Hits: 3
Attack: d8+2
Speed: Average
Defense: Hard
Mummies are the preserved remains of ancient kings and high priests. They are dry, dessicated husks. They are very tough and have great strength, despite lacking muscles. But Mummies are very vulnerable to fire. For every hit that a Mummy receives from fire, whether it be a makeshift torch or a flamethrower, it takes two hits worth of damage.

Scarecrow
Hits: 2
Attack: d8+2
Speed: Average
Defense: Hard
Scarecrows are animated hay and clothing. They like to kill humans and hang them up on poles in fields. Scarecrows usually hang around one field where they collect their trophies over a period of time. They are very susceptible to fire, and take two hits for every one hit from fire (whether it be a makeshift torch or a Molotov cocktail).

XXVIII. Level 3 Monsters
Level 3 monsters are even harder and even stronger than Level 2 monsters, but they are also intelligent, able to plan. Level 3 monsters often bring together several Level 2 monsters to act as cronies and thugs.

Vampire
Hits: 5
Attack: d10+3
Speed: Very Hard
Defense: Overpowering
Vampires are ancient undead creatures. They drink the blood of humans to survive. They are strong and fast and more intelligent than most geniuses. Vampires use franks and wolfmen as front line support, but can also take most enemies in a fight.

Clown
Hits: 4
Attack: d10+3
Speed: Hard
Defense: Overpowering
Clowns are creepy.

XXIX. Allies
One of the GM's main responsibilities during actual game play is to control the character's allies. Though they are called "Allies", these are actually anyone that the party finds that are not monsters. Allies can be just that, or they can be adversaries. They can even be completely neutral towards the party.
Allies each have a set of statistics, similar to those of a character. An Ally has Physical, Mental, and Social Statistics, as well as an Attack skill and a Defense Class. They also have a few skills.
As GM you will need to create and control each of the Allies that the characters meet with. You will need to roll for them and direct their actions.

XXX. Dealing Damage
Monsters and characters deal damage differently. When a character hits a monster, the monster receives one "hit", which is subtracted from a total that is listed in its description. When a monster or Ally hits a character, however, the character receives Hit Point damage equal to the number that the monster rolled for its attack, minus the Defense Level of the character.
For instance, your character is being attacked by a Frank. Your character has a Defense of Average, and the Frank rolls 6 (4+2=6). Your character would take 1 Hit Point of damage, because the Difficulty your Defense was 5, and the Frank rolled 6 (6-5=1).

END